Charles Frederick Worth is designer, who dressed the most influential ladies of his time up. The future creator of Haute Couture quickly realized that success can be achieved only in Paris. And at age of 25 he was already the owner of women’s clothing production.
Biography
Charles was born on October 13, 1825 in small town of Great Britain – Bourne. His father, a successful lawyer, became addicted to alcohol and quickly spent family money. Eleven-year-old boy was forced to leave his parental house. Surely, he went to the capital.
In London, young man became an employee of the company “Swan and Edgar”, which supplied fabrics for manufacture of women’s dresses. After some time, he was hired as salesman at «Lewis and Allenby», which supplied Britain with silk. He worked there until 1845.
During this period, Worth got an idea and set a goal to sew luxurious clothes and get rich. He devoted his free time to studying of historical expensive costumes at National Gallery of London. At age of 20, future trendsetter resigned and driven by dream, went to Paris. Fortune was favorable to young man, and in capital of France, he quickly acquired his own department for the production of women’s wardrobe, located in Maison Gagelin.
Career
In 1851, couturier exhibited several projects at exhibition in the capital of England, where he received grand prix. After 4 years at World Exhibition in Paris, his train design was awarded medal. A distinctive feature of model was fabric, flowing from the shoulder line, which gave festive dresses a new silhouette.
Charles married Marie Verne. The woman became his muse and advertisement. She possessed graceful forms and natural charm, could emphasize the beauty of outfit. Future clients, having seen the dresses created by designer, came to the studio with request to sew dresses for them. When her husband became an owner of fashion salon, Marie showed collections, turning into the first fashion model in the world. And Charles can be boldly called the founder of defile.
Atelier House of Worth, Charles Frederick was located in 1858 in not very fashionable place in Paris – on Rue de la Paix. But this did not stop the designer from offering luxurious and elegant outfits for ladies from high society. At that time clothing was supposed to emphasize the status of person. Rococo style dictated the fashion. This desire for rich decorative elements Worth was able to advantageously display in his creations. His companion was Swede Otto Boberg, and in 1971, Worth bought the share of his friend.
The costume, made in workshops of young fashion designer, was noticed after wife of Austrian ambassador appeared in his dress at ball in Tuileries. The outfit had a complex cut, consisted entirely of tulle, shiny inserts, playful hearts made of pink fabric and bunches of herbs. Madame Matternich, saw at Marie Verne the clothes created by her husband, but she did not dare to place an order in his studio for a long time. Finally, she approved two sketches, but with reservation – no more than 600 francs will be paid for a pair of costumes from unknown master. Despite the fact that only several wardrobe items could be purchased from ready-made clothing store, Worth surpassed himself.
The second half of Napoleon III couldn’t help noticing the wonderful dress and Charles Frederick Worth became personal tailor of Empress Eugenia, and soon the whole court. European rich people dreamed to have his clothes in their wardrobe. Gradually, the atelier of fashion designer turned into secular salon.
The wives of monarch appreciated the invention of founder of Worth fashion house – crinoline. Skirts on basic structure already existed, but Charles improved the model and made construction easier. He increased crinoline to larger diameter, which is why the female silhouette, framed by ruffles and frills looked more magnificent and presentable.
Couturier was innovator of his time. He created small collections for demonstration. The ladies chose the model they liked and tailors of his atelier sewed these models of dresses suitable for the figure of client. Charles introduced license for his creations – workshops and shops bought samples for further production.
Important persons
Becoming a personal supplier of clothing for Her Majesty’s court, the creator of Haute Couture allowed himself to raise the price tag. One outfit cost at least incredible 1,600 francs! This decision did not negatively affect the number of orders, which continued to grow – fashion house produced 5,000 costumes per year.
The couturier had crowned persons among regular customers, therefore he was nicknamed as king of fashion designers. Glory about him reached even Russian court – Countess Baryatinskaya, Princess Yuryevskaya. French tailor dressed up the wife of Emperor Alexander III – Maria Fyodorovna for more than quarter of century. Her confidence was so high that Worth’s fashion house received orders for dresses by telegram according to her chosen design and fabric of dresses.
Costumes of Charles atelier were sewn by hand. A new collection of clothes was released once every 12 months, which significantly increased the income of creator. By creating trends, the designer contributed to the change of fashion and subsequent replacement of wardrobe. Empress Eugene became his favorite customer for ever. For grand opening of Suez Canal, he sewed more than hundred dresses for her.
The Queen of England – Victoria – secretly acquired a large batch of clothes made of fabric of the same type and color. The press admired without noticing the deception, because in their opinion, she wore the same dress every day.
Ahead of fashion
Charles Worth has been trendsetter for the style of noble persons and high fashion for half century. He was distinguished by professional craftsmanship, skillful combination of expensive fabrics, sophistication of decorative trimmings, usage of historical elements of dress, and of course, impeccable cut. The quantity of tailors working for him has grown up to 1,200 persons.
The format of Worth studio was quite unusual for that time. Luxurious fashion boutique could be called salon for socialite ladies. The designer personally worked with particularly important clients, created collections that were shown on models, rather than mannequins. Invited audience had the opportunity to see new clothes and order liked dresses. Tailors of workshop sewed clothes by modeling them according to the figure of client.
Charles was actively promoting his brand and due to this fact he received the title of first couturier. He sold copies of his work around the world. A large number of dresses of talented designer can be found in museums of USA. Worth was the first, who started to sew the label, indicating the name of creator, on his clothes. Numerous imitators who sold their own clothes as the creations of famous founder of high fashion, induced him to such idea.
While the tailors habitually used mannequins, Charles was looking for girls who looked like the type of his clients. Secular ladies could not always come to fitting, so master could sew dresses with understudies without delay. In 1860 Charles began to use oval hoops and achieved new silhouette by refining crinoline.
In 1867 designer offered fashionistas bustle by bringing to the decline of crinoline era. The success was stunning – due to the removed excess volume the grace was added to figure of women. The design was skirt fabric gathered at back and laid in flounces, folds, frills. It was held by roller filled with cotton or pillow filled with hair, in some cases it was frame of hoops. The bustle was at peak of fashion for 10 years, varying and acquiring new forms and volume. The detail was generously decorated with ribbons, fringe and artificial flowers.
In 1868 Worth opened an organization – High Fashion Syndicate. He united salons, which sewed clothes for nobles and representatives of upper classes. The syndicate rules fashion world and nowadays gives the right to call themselves couturiers only to those who are members of this organization. Only designers, who have Fashion House in Paris and represent his collections at High Fashion Week twice a year, can be in this organization. One of the most essential conditions is important predominance of hand work during the creation of clothes – it was allowed to use no more than 30% of lines made by sewing machine.
In 1872 Charles Worth appreciated invented chemical dye – aniline. With the help of it he created the dresses of saturated shades, by introducing dresses of bright colors into everyday life. Couturier created transformer dress. It was suggested to combine the skirt with various bodices with V – neck on chest, with deep decollete, closed with long sleeves. In this way the fashionista may turn her dress into evening outfit during the day.
Thanks to art works of Charles Worth, the world has learned new concept – couturier. Previously, there were just seamstresses – couturier. After all, he became the founder of tradition of sewing not just clothes, but work of art and introduced the word “Fashion” into everyday life.
Charles offered the public not only new items of wardrobe and accessories. He managed to convince Marie to cut her hair short and having laid remaining curls, curled her bangs with small curls. Even conservative empress Eugene, succumbing to trend that swept the yard, got rid of her long hair.
Decline of triumph
The practice of private sewing of luxurious dresses has sunk into oblivion with advent of the Third Republic. The pompous court fashion, so beloved by Charles Worth, ceased to exist. He missed the old days and did not forget about the empress, who once opened the door to young artist in the world of elegant women’s dresses, recognition and realized dreams. An interesting fact of life – grateful designer annually sent Eugene violets. The bouquet had a ribbon with his embroidered name.
Charles Frederick Worth, the creator of Haute Couture, died in 1895. The sons of couturier – Jean-Philippe and Gaston – took over the family business. Their house ceased to exist in 1945, when the name “Worth” was sold to the British.
In the summer of 2001, in New York, court dress created by the great designer in 1888 was exhibited for auction. It belonged to cousin of great-granddaughter of George Washington – Esther Maria Chapine. This outfit with detachable train, which had length of 10.5 pounds and waist girth of 23 inches is truly a masterpiece of art. The collector paid 101,500 $ for it.
