Yves Saint Laurent is great fashion artist and revolutionist, who loved classics. His art works turned around the fashion industry of the 20th century.
Childhood
Yves Henri Donat Mathieu-Saint-Laurent was born on August 1, 1936 in port city, Oran. The childhood of boy with his two younger sisters was spent in Mediterranean villa. Parents raised their children in friendly atmosphere. Despite this fact, future couturier did not like the place where they lived. He had lean physique and habits of aristocrat, for that reason he often became the object of derision for his classmates. Therefore, he had a dream – to leave this place as soon as possible.
Yves Saint Laurent at the age of 8 painted sketches of women’s dresses and his mother was the main muse. At 11, he found new hobby – theater. He was very impressed by performance “School of Wives”, where costume designer was Frenchman Louis Jouvet. Young architect designed the scenery of home theater stage, created outfits for puppet actors from old shreds. The boy was not able to sew at that time, so all clothes for the rag troupe were made with glue.
The formation of artist was influenced by the work of Christian Berard, paintings of Edouard Manet, Henri Matisse, Diego Velazquez. Saint-Laurent once retold that he did not learn to draw, and he does it not so well, but his drafts and sketches are expressive for viewer.
Fashion study
In 1953 young man, who was already 17 years old, escaped from odious Oran. He went to Paris, the city seemed to him as a place where miracles happen. The capital of France did not disappoint him. Without difficulty, Saint-Laurent entered courses under High Fashion Syndicate, simultaneously he was working as designer.
When big contest of young stylists was announced, he boldly registered several projects. The first prize went to his asymmetric cocktail dress in black. Palm of victory was shared with German clothing author, whose name was Karl Lagerfeld.
At the end of year, Yves met Michel de Brunhoff, the editor of major fashion magazine. A few months later, designer won brilliantly in another competition. His opponents were Karl Lagerfeld and Fernando Sanchez. After this event, Michel de Brunhoff get acquainted with Yves’ sketches. The editor admitted the talent of young man and noted that he had already seen something similar in the morning in projects of Christian Dior. So in one day Yves found mentor and lifelong rival, who was his young colleague, Christian Dior.
Yves worked as an assistant in Dior fashion house for more than two years. Dior didn’t give him any kind of serious works. Yves patiently dealt with the design of accessories and studios. Following one year, novice fashion designer started to make sketches for new haute couture collection. Dior appreciated the talent of his assistant and approved his ideas.
Youth and recognition
In 1957 Christian met with Yves’ mother. He told the woman that he was going to announce her son as his successor. This statement confused Yves’ mother, Lucien, because the man in front of her could not be called old, he was only 52 years old. But few months later, the world was shocked by tragedy, great and honored Dior died due to heart attack in health complex of Italy.
By that time, Yves was only 21 years old. He managed to reveal his gift to the owners of brand and to create beautiful clothes, and after the death of Dior House founder, young man was appointed as an Art Director.
Saint Laurent easily met expectations and in 1958 prepared his first collection. He saved famous company from imminent bankruptcy. Critics saw in collection New Look inherent in Dior, but already in the interpretation of new couturier – with straight lines forming trapeze. Long name of designer caused difficulties for writing in foreign editions. Yves shortened it to concise “Saint Laurent.” Dresses of new A-silhouette were sewn from flowing fabric. The designer stepped aside from usual emphasis on the waist, which became trend in fashion industry.
In the same year he created the second collection, it was not honored as the first one, moreover it was criticized. Connoisseurs did not like hobble skirts that limited the movement due to its narrow construction. The elements of clothing of beatnik style were also criticized. Yves replaced usual shirts with turtlenecks and suggested women to wear jackets for riding motorcycle.
In 1959, couturier visited Moscow with twelve girls who worked for him as models. He presented collection of outerwear for women, he was the first person, who showed Soviet Union ready-to-wear collection. In the same year, student from Paris, who was going to marry noble Iranian, ordered wedding dress of Saint Laurent.
Couturier’s ideas seemed to be extremely revolutionary. Fashion house Dior began to lose shareholders. The management decided to dismiss overly ambitious designer. In fashion circles, rumors that Marcel Boussac contributed to the recruitment of Yves to military service, were popular. There was war for independence in Algeria and in 1960 Saint-Laurent was sent to Africa to the front line.
Young man did not stay even for a month in army. He was transferred after his nervous breakdown. He was placed in psychiatric clinic. The artist was treated with electricity and serious medicines. Thin and short-sighted by nature, Saint Laurent left the hospital in November 1961 with weight of 35 kilograms and the loss of speaking skills. At that time he was also fired from Dior’s fashion house.
The great fashion artist had been recovering after experiencing the stress of electric shock therapy with antipsychotic drugs for several years. Pierre Berger supported him. Yves sued Dior Fashion House. They satisfied his claim and Saint Laurent received 700 thousand francs for early contract termination. Couturier created his own personal brand with the given money.
Fashion House YSL
Yves with his companion Pierre found investor Mark Robinson, businessman from America. He agreed to invest several million francs in brainchild of Saint Laurent. Thus Fashion House with famous logo from the first letters of name of couturier – YSL was born. The debut of collection was scheduled for January, 1962. Parisians expected huge failure from project, because they believed that the designer did not have the financial means for worthy embodiment of his ideas. What was the surprise of viewers when on the catwalk models demonstrated outfits that were in the spirit of modernity. Baroness de Rothschild and writer Francoise Sagan did not hide their enthusiasm.
The artist combined design activities and collaborated with theater. He created decorations and costumes for performances and variety shows. In 1968, London and New York saw exhibitions of his theatrical drawings.
Until the 1970s, Yves shone in fashion world. Couturier will dress women in sweaters with high-neck and miniskirts, blouses out of gauzy fabric, safari dresses, and black leather jackets.
In 1965 designer presented his first fragrance – “Y”. In 1965, inspired by the paintings of Mondrian, Saint-Laurent released collection of clothes that will bring him absolute success. With this project, he stated that he was sick and tired of dressing the wives of wealthy men. The revolutionary outfits of A-silhouette, decorated with patterns of geometric shapes borrowed from artists’ canvases, revolutionized the fashion industry. In the collection you can find the works of modernists Polyakov and Malevich. This will not be traditional print on the surface of dress, but separate patterns of multi-colored fabric sewn together. Colleagues of couturier will hit on this idea in their clothing lines.
In 1966 YSL opened his own haute couture boutique. The name of store with the prefix “Rive Gauche” will hint at the banks of Seine river, place where freethinkers and revolutionaries were settled down. This is how you can characterize Laurent, who dressed ladies in suits from men wardrobe. Yves had strengthened his positions with his Tuxedo collection. Tuxedos, jackets and trousers, pea jackets, overalls are officially proclaimed as clothes that can be worn by both sexes.
A flurry of criticism was provoked by Laurent in 1971 with «Liberacion» collection. The master was inspired by designer Anne Paloma Ruiz-Picasso y Gilot. The models on catwalk reminded with their outfits about the events of the Second World War. His second muse was Marlene Dietrich, who was known for her love of provocations. Women from older generations were indignant, these looks evoked memories of occupation years. Critics made analogies of black tights, intense makeup and shoes on platform sole with courtesans. Disputes were replaced with enthusiasm for women’s formal costumes, reminding men’s suits – as always, he was ahead of fashion.
Yves boldly declared that women are free, and no one has the right to prescribe what to wear today. Diana Vreeland was the editor of fashion edition, noticed that fashion designer got a magic fife that attracts women of different ages.
When he saw ballet of Sergei Dyagilev, Yves will delight the lovers of innovation. His project “Russian Ballets and Opera” was inspired by national motifes and Russian theater. The clothing line consisted of dresses “peasant woman” with variety of embroidered themes.
Anticipating the imminent decline of his triumph, he released tribute collection in early 1990s. The master will devote it to those whom he loved all this time – artists, actors, dancers. The farewell show took place in January 2002 at Georges Pompidou Center, which became an event of national scale.
Perfumes and cosmetics
Another path of Laurent is the production of aromas and cosmetics. In 1971, the master created perfumes for men under languorous name “Opium”. The advertisement was no less provocative – the couturier undressed during the presentation of his creation.
Then the “face” of “Opium” will be Rupert Eferet, Linda Evangelista. Sophie Dahl will follow the example of designer and didn’t embarrass to appear naked in front of the public.
The last years of master
Yves Saint Laurent is great fashion artist, an exhibition at the Metropolitan Museum of Art was opened in his honor during his lifetime.
In 1987 collection, which will be named “ill-fated”, was released. Maestro will decorate jackets with diamonds. Stones cost 100 thousand dollars. No one would pay attention to this if the show did not take place a few days after Black Monday, the collapse of Financial Exchange. Luxury of outfits will be called inappropriate. Disappointed Yves will hand over the reins of project to his assistants and then critics will say that the clothes are too boring.
In 2005, the master left the fashion industry. The rest of his life was spent in seclusion in mansions of Morocco and France. He will be accompanied by his pet, bulldog with sonorous nickname “Man.” Another interesting fact about the life of master is that he named his dogs with the same name by adding serial number to it.
Designer died on the first of June, 2008 due to the brain cancer. Talented founder of unisex style presented women pumps with metal buckle, square toe and low heels, dresses without collar and sleeves, graphic drawings on clothes. He was famous and had many merits, achievements in fashion world.
But all his life, Yves was alone and not happy. His permanent friend Pierre Berger, after the death of designer, retold that couturier was not born in order to rejoice, despite the happy moments in his life, and he struggled with constant bouts of depression.
In 2014, two directors immediately released films on big screen dedicated to the creative and life path of fashion designer – “Yves Saint Laurent” and “Saint Laurent. Style is me”
In 1999, Laurent’s house was bought by management staff of Gucci. At different times, Tom Ford, Stefano Pilati, Paul Deneuve worked on the projects. In winter of 2012, Edie Slimane became Art Director and renamed the line as Saint Laurent Paris. He was replaced by Anthony Vikkarello, who presented the boots with high top borrowed from great fashion artist, Saint Laurent, turning them into “accordion” the next season.
