In 1915, in Harper’s Bazaar magazine, great Gabrielle Chanel was mentioned as couturier, who was known all over the world. The fashionable heritage of Coco Chanel is relevant even in the 21st century.
Childhood and youth
Coco was born in August 1883 in small town in the center of France, Saumur. Later, she hid her age and said that the date of her birth is 1893. Nothing indicated that she will develop her creative nature in the future. Her mother was from family of carpenter and her father traded in small-scale trade in the market. After the death of her mother, in 1985 her father left daughter and other three children in orphanage, where nuns brought them up. The girl lived there for 5 years.
After leaving the orphanage, Coco began selling clothes in one of stores of stockings and socks. She had excellent vocal abilities, so she did not abandon the idea of becoming singer, despite the lack of high social status, girl dreamed about abundant life. Young talent in cabaret Viсhy and Moulin acted. Here she found her name, which later will be known all over the world, due to the name of songs of her performance “Ko Ko Ri Ko” and “Qui qu’a vu Coco”.
The girl met influential aristocrat Etienne Balzan. Retired officer brought Coco to his house, which was more like royal castle. Bored, she came up with goal to become modiste, which she announced to her lover. The man laughed at her, but as he was passionately in love with Coco, he agreed to help and introduced her to industrialist from England, Arthur Capel. Close friends called Arthur “Fight”, because of his entrepreneurial vein, which he has successfully manifested despite his young age.
Englishman like Chanel was fascinated by fashion trends. Thanks to his support, she decided to start with women’s hats. The store gained great popularity in 1910 and later it changed its address by moving to Ritz Hotel, where it is located now. Following another 3 years, the second boutique was opened in Deauville.
Path to recognition
Coco turned out to be talented fashion designer. Her business was successfully expanded, even despite the First World War. She began to design clothes, her first work was dress that the designer sewed from sweater. People liked remarkable outfit, and Chanel offered to do the same for everyone.
Heyday of young fashion designer’s project began in early 1920s. At the same time, the production of cult Chanel No. 5 perfumes was launched. For the first time in perfumery industry, its aroma contained a large amount of aldehydes and synthetic compounds. This allowed to make aroma more persistent. Most women will like this aroma so much that the peerless Marilyn Monroe will answer to the question about her wear for sleep: “A pair of droplets of Chanel No. 5”.
In 1925 form-fitting skirts and jackets, famous silhouettes of Mademoiselle Coco Chanel appeared in fashion industry. The couturier’s decision to sew women’s clothing with elements of men’s wardrobe became revolutionary. With her light hand, ladies exchanged tight corsets and uncomfortable multi-layered skirts for comfortable clothes.
With her little black dress, she declared that it is no longer the color of mourning. Now it personifies elegant clothes for evening outfit. Chanel believed that black color is not able to overshadow the brilliance of woman. And despite the fact that Coco mainly used in her work beige, red and gold tones, black color became her favorite one – revealing sexuality, style and appeal.
Interesting fact about designer’s life is that she has rare not feminine foot size, i.e. 40. In order to create illusion of small feet, she created shoes with low heel and open back part. Coco hung out with theatre world of France. She is an author of costumes for ballet actors. She was friend with Pablo Picasso and Igor Stravinsky, she had romantic relationship with Russian composer.
In 1923 woman was presented to Duke of Westminster and their love lasted for 10 years. The man offered to get married, but Coco replied: “Chanel is the only one, while Duchesses of Westminster are several”.
In 1955 designer presented handbag for women like her, who was tired to have bulky handbags. The product was of small size with delicate chain that can be thrown over shoulder. The name of this fashionable heritage of Coco Chanel “2.55” and you can buy it in modern stores.
In all works fasteners, buttons and decorations created by Coco there is branded lion sign. The image of animals king is chosen for reason, it was zodiac sign of Chanel. Moreover, the lion is symbol of Venice, where young designer went after the death of Kapala. This animal represented for her the rebirth of new life.
Period of World War II
In 1930 crisis hit businessmen and it did not pass Chanel Fashion House by. In order not to ruin Fashion House completely and as it was not the best time, couturier dismissed her workers and closed all shops.
The woman got acquainted with baron Hans Gunther von Dinklage, who helped to rescue her nephew from German captivity. Coco settled in his apartment in Ritz, for what she was harshly condemned by public, they accused her of betrayal, after the surrender of Germany. At that time she was 56 years old and Chanel was recorded as lover and agent of Hans Gunther von Dinklage in files stored in archives.
In addition, at the same time, she began to work for German secret service. Hal Vaughan, author of book about secret life of fashion designer, assured that cooperation with German government lasted throughout the World War. During that period, Coco didn’t only inform Germans about the events taking place in France, but there are at least ten successfully completed tasks on the account of female spy. Her name is officially listed among German intelligence officers. Chanel was arrested on charge of assisting Nazis. In 1944 she was offered freedom, in exchange for promise to leave her native country. Consequently, Coco lived in Switzerland until 1953.
Gabriel Coco Chanel was one of those women who does not have to get married for love. She avoided doing simple women’s affairs, which are characteristic of females, she said that she was not born for marriage. And so, nobody could marry her, although there were many men who wanted to.
Return to Paris
In 1954 Coco decided to return to haute couture world. During her absence, this world was completely in men’s hands. Power over women’s clothing was held tight by Balenciaga and Christian Dior.
Chanel came to Paris to present her new collection. Critics met her not rosy and completely defeated her. The woman continued to do what she liked without paying attention to them. Three years later, designer returned and increased her former success. Her models of clothes, made the figure more feminine, were again at the peak of popularity and were sold around the world.
Fashion Revolution
In order to understand what exactly Chanel has done for fashion world, it is worthy to remember what happened before her and what changed.
Women’s colorful dresses with fringe, lace and many other details, only complicated the life of females. And then came Coco, who claims that there was no need for corsets, ruffles and tinsel. A woman can be attractive and fashionable by her simplicity. Hairstyles over which hairdressers worked hard for several hours, talented mademoiselle called “flowerbed” and it was high time to get rid of it.
Famous little black dress
For such courageous women, Coco Chanel created her la petite robe noire. It was believed that such color was chosen because of mourning that designer wore for her lover Arthur Kapel, who died in a car accident.
Little black dress speaks about elegance, taste and style of its owner. And besides, with new fashion it wasn’t necessary to change outfits several times in a day for lunch, dinner, tea and etc. Mademoiselle Chanel offered the pumps and very short haircut.
The first black dress created by Coco Chanel hid her knees, she called this part of body unattractive and awkward. Even in the period of wildly popular miniskirts, classic Chanel brand did not sew such clothes. The dress was decorated with boat neckline and long sleeve. This modest and stylish basic outfit allows you to change the look by playing with accessories.
Tweed suit
Chanel created female tweed suit. Initially, this fabric was used exclusively for men’s clothing collections, as it was quite rough. But, since Coco Chanel was against such division, it was decided to use tweed to sew fitted jacket for women. The second reason for this choice was invention of this product during the years of war, which are hardly abundant, so clothes were sewn from what was left in old stocks. And in the 50s her clothes were worn by Audrey Hepburn, Elizabeth Taylor. Everyone also remembers the appearance of the first lady of USA Jacqueline Kennedy in tweed suit, which was made in Chanel fashion house.
Pants are not only male part of wardrobe
Various fashion houses often tried to instill in women love for different trousers, but only with Coco Chanel, women stopped avoiding this part of ladies’ wardrobe. But, since this happened in 1929, only very confident and courageous women allowed themselves to try on and go out in this outfit in public.
Marlene Dietrich was one of the first women, who dared to put on trouser suit from famous fashion house for social event. Surely, the singer shocked everyone. Thanks to this brave woman that creation of fashion designer became popular all over the world.
Last years
Having returned her name to its former glory, Coco ensured that wealthy and famous women again began to attend her shows. She recommenced the collaboration with Hollywood studios. Film divas flaunted in clothes of Chanel Fashion House collections. Designer was engaged in patronage activities. Her financial support was received by artists such as Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali.
The couturier’s refusal from ultra-short dresses and mini-skirts strongly undermined brand’s position.
The designer died at the age of 80, on the 10th of January, 1971, leaving behind fashionable legacy of Coco Chanel, which does not lose its relevance in contemporary world. She was buried in Swiss Lausanne. The tombstone is decorated with five lions.
Chanel No. 5 is still one of the most popular women’s perfumes. The press calls Great Mademoiselle, as one of those designers who have most strongly influenced on the development of fashion industry. By beginning with avant-garde hats, Coco wanted to dress the representatives of fair half of humanity not in costumes for “masquerade”, but in elegant classics. Coco Chanel made tweed and jersey as the signs of luxury. Her collections have become a sign of good taste and hallmark of lady.
Chanel loved cosmetics and believed that woman who does not use lipstick and mascara has too high opinion about herself. She said that after forty years, no one is young, but any woman can be irresistible. The couturier went out only after visiting makeup artist and with impeccable manicure.
Chanel Fashion House
After the death of Chanel, the production was bought by Jacques Wertheimer. In 1978, the fragrance Cristalle, the formula of which was developed during the life of Coco, was released. They started selling accessories under Chanel label and ready-made clothes around the world. In 1983, Karl Lagerfeld became Art director. While the rest of designers worked on classic style of brand, Karl was engaged in the construction of new collections.
In the late 1980s, offices were opened in New York. In the 1990s, House brought huge income by offering watches, high-quality shoes, cosmetics, jewelry. In 2002, Chanel House created company that combined 5 different directions. Every year Lagerfeld presented ready-to-wear clothing collections. Under Karl Lagerfeld, Chanel brand became one of the most formidable players in luxury segment with annual sales of more than $11 billion. After Karl Lagerfeld’s death Virginie Viard became Creative Director of Chanel brand.
